Wednesday, October 28, 2009
BTTF2 Featurette: Behind the Scenes
Gotta love this movie. Must have been the most difficult of the trilogy to do.
Esky Headlock Gyro Tutorial (Headlock VS. Rate)
How to setup an Esky EK2-0704A Headlock Gyro on a Honey Bee King II.
This is just a tutorial on how to install the gyro, and how it should work when properly installed.
Much thanks to subzzzzzzzero for his tutorials, they have been a great help to me. Especially note this one to get your tail servo adjusted correctly when installing a new gyro: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPKKel...
Music: Main Theme from Airwolf, Artist Sylvester Levay
http://cosmetics-jewelry.com/
http://mens-womens.cosmetics-jewelry....
http://mens-womens.cosmetics-jewelry....
http://electronic-for.me/
http://digital.electronic-for.me/
http://entertainment-for.me/
http://best.entertainment-for.me/
http://is-business-for.me/
http://money.is-business-for.me/
http://sport-is-for.me/
http://extreme.sport-is-for.me/
http://vehicle-for.me/
http://new-and-used.vehicle-for.me/
Sunday, October 25, 2009
Propeller clock
Propeller clock
1. dsPIC30F6015 runs at 30MIPS
2. HDD motor driven by Toshiba driver TB6588FG
3. 32x white led LED driven by two serial-2-parallel drivers STP16CP05
4. Real Time Clock DS1307Z with battery backup
5. External EEPROM for saving animations, fonts and texts etc.
6. ICSP programming
7. Energy consumption: 5V / 0.78A
Authors:
Marian Kuruc
Hynek Prokop
Tomas Lippa
More at www.mcuhobby.cz
Brushless CD-ROM motor operated from MATLAB -- II
Another video featuring a brushless motor salvaged from a CD drive. The motor is driven using MATLAB to send signals through a custom, three-phase inverter.
read about it under the research section on: http://christopherphaneuf.com
Two-axis stepper drawing machine
Built with two stepper motors scavenged from CD-ROM drives and controlled by two knobs. It's kind of like a large unwieldy physical etch-a-sketch.
Saturday, October 24, 2009
nyaruten 9 V1 behind
Made of styrene of a mile almost no sense of scale, depending on the delusional well it'll be fun tailless aircraft.
Had been flying patrols over the top-secret test tailless aircraft, flying machine and a close look at anything new to the pilot of a Focke-Wulf airplane ride, a restrained from air traffic controllers by radio "radio out of whack, well hear, "I say so or have a peep from the new tailless aircraft at low altitude. TEAM Institute and paranoia when they are photographed and the plane might have been too busy working a little strange.
Nyaruten is the back of this thing. The total current value of the 20 cell lipoprotein Makanaemasu enough, 0.1g tears I want to secure a light at the center of gravity 30 is equipped with a lipoprotein. I also extend Samushi weight of the motor shaft axis, and I'm afraid I have eaten pretty meager friction thrust. The thrust will be eaten even if you open a hole in the center wing mount as well. Nyan said that after all is the choice of lipoprotein 30mA. How do you control the center of gravity position during and after the bombing with the actual tailless bomber bomb again? When fully loaded with fuel adjustment homing What are you doing? Might be something in the computer-controlled now, more than 60 years ago during a test flight I wonder if I was put in manually trim experience and intuition? Great Na
MK04S-24 motor is ultra-loose goods such as white masking tape stopped.
On the difference in the two images is解Rimasu something?
Modoro to work with and come on meow
Deadline is full Unyanya meow (T T)
Had been flying patrols over the top-secret test tailless aircraft, flying machine and a close look at anything new to the pilot of a Focke-Wulf airplane ride, a restrained from air traffic controllers by radio "radio out of whack, well hear, "I say so or have a peep from the new tailless aircraft at low altitude. TEAM Institute and paranoia when they are photographed and the plane might have been too busy working a little strange.
Nyaruten is the back of this thing. The total current value of the 20 cell lipoprotein Makanaemasu enough, 0.1g tears I want to secure a light at the center of gravity 30 is equipped with a lipoprotein. I also extend Samushi weight of the motor shaft axis, and I'm afraid I have eaten pretty meager friction thrust. The thrust will be eaten even if you open a hole in the center wing mount as well. Nyan said that after all is the choice of lipoprotein 30mA. How do you control the center of gravity position during and after the bombing with the actual tailless bomber bomb again? When fully loaded with fuel adjustment homing What are you doing? Might be something in the computer-controlled now, more than 60 years ago during a test flight I wonder if I was put in manually trim experience and intuition? Great Na
MK04S-24 motor is ultra-loose goods such as white masking tape stopped.
On the difference in the two images is解Rimasu something?
Modoro to work with and come on meow
Deadline is full Unyanya meow (T T)
AQEL F15 DESIGN
i always love to be an eng, so i started to research on R.C Plan, this is my 1st ever build plane
Micro RC Helicopter w/ LED Lights - Hot!
An Easier and more controlled flight latest for 2008!!! Very popular model due to it's easy to fly super tough light weight frame cutting edge micro-motor and dual-rotor blade design merge together in the world's smallest 3 CHANNEL INDOOR HELICOPTER. Twin rotor blades for extra stability.
PCB SMD (CMS) A to Z
How make a PCB without UV light.
You need in order :
1. Laminating pouches
2. Water
3. warme water frome tape+iron Perchlorure
4. Solder cream
5. Acetone
6. Oven
Friday, October 23, 2009
Surface Mount Soldering 101
http://www.curiousinventor.com/store
Instructions for Soldering and Desoldering SMDs featuring up-close shots of fine-pitch soldering.
Interactive LED Panels: New version, white LEDs
http://evilmadscience.com/majors/36-bigkits/46-tables
How to Multiplex/ Part II
In this video, we continue to figure out how to control 64 LEDs with 12 pins. These techniques can apply to a larger "grid" of LEDs.
http://www.kevindarrah.com/
How to multiplex with LEDs
Video explaining how I multiplex. This video was made in response to my 4x4x4 LED cube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ai7etk...
This same technique can be used to drive relays, solenoids, or other lights; just make sure to use the proper transistor or mosfet.
Animations on the media facade at the Bayer Building
Animated images on the media facade of the skyscraper in Bayer Leverkusen. Included) from the left side of the Rhine (Height Ford-Werke. / Animation on the media facade of the Bayer headquarters in Leverkusen, Germany. Shot from across the river Rhine (next to the Ford factory).
Thursday, October 22, 2009
quatrocopter
build quadrocopter with carbon chassis, 4 speed 280 motors with 1:5 gearbox. pic 16f876 was replaced by dspic 30f6010 to control the for motors over 4 power mosfet. gyroscope was build using 3 adxrs300,
Rotating led display
http://akikorhonen.org/projects.php?action=view&id=216
I've always liked all kinds of led displays and a rotating one is maybe one of the most interesting ones. I've been planning on building one for many years (actually I made one a couple of years ago, but it is was quite crappy). I finally got some good ideas on how I'll make the first proper display and started to plan the schematics and the pcb with Eagle. You can see the finished ones below.
You can see the etched and cut board on the left. It is a double sided pcb with the other side fully coppered to be used as a ground plane. On the right is the motor I used for the display, it is a normal 8 cm fan and I cut the sides away and removed the fan part from the motor. I used this same motor on the first led display I talked about in the beginning.
On the left photo the pcb is being populated and most of the 74HC595D shift registers and led current limiting resistors are missing. On the right I'm making the led part. I made this part again later and moved all the leds closer together. I used 16 double color (red+green) leds.
The board fully populated and the first tests on the display running. Just some random tests to see that all the shift registers are working properly and all the data lines are connected right.
After a couple days of building and fixing I got the machine ready. I did the led part again to get all the leds closer together because I wanted a more even picture and the long version was too wobbly. The rotating board gets its ground through the motor (I soldered a piece of wire to the bearing under the motor) and +12V is coming from the upper bracket seen on the photos. There is a big bearing on the bracket and it is held in place with those four M3 bolts.
Closeup of the bracket. The black thing pointing down above the bearing is an IR led covered with heat shrink tubing. There is a piece of fiber optic running through the center rod (~10 cm piece of M5 threaded rod) and it goes over an IR-diode on the board. It is used for serial data so I can send some information on to the rotating board. I'll replace this with a wireless link someday.
Side shot from the device. The rotating board is connected to the motor with three short M3 bolts. Below the motor there is a small pcb in the middle of those wires with a MAX233 RS232 level converter. The switch on the right is the main power switch and the one on the left is for the motor. The main switch lets power go on to the rotating board so I can program it and after removing the programming cable, I can then switch on the motor. There is also another IR led under the rotating board that is used to trigger the IR diode on the board that is connected to the INT0 interrupt on the ATmega. I tells the board when it has to start flashing the leds to draw the image.
And finally, the first real test with the display fully operational and rotating. I get three colors with this setup: red, green and orange/yellowish when both red ang green are on at the same time. I drew an image with the height of 16 pixels and used pure red (255,0,0), green (0, 255, 0) and yellow (255, 255, 0). I then made a small PHP-script that will load the PNG image file that I made and it just reads every pixel from it and checks whether there is red or green on it (yellow has them both). It then outputs a piece of code that I can copy and paste on to the program code of the display. I used two 8-bit tables (one for each color) where the first byte is the data for the first 8 leds and the second byte is for the last 8 leds and so on. The table length is two times the width of the image because two bytes are used for every column.
Rotating led display
I've always liked all kinds of led displays and a rotating one is maybe one of the most interesting ones. I've been planning on building one for many years (actually I made one a couple of years ago, but it is was quite crappy). I finally got some good ideas on how I'll make the first proper display and started to plan the schematics and the pcb with Eagle. You can see the finished ones below.
You can see the etched and cut board on the left. It is a double sided pcb with the other side fully coppered to be used as a ground plane. On the right is the motor I used for the display, it is a normal 8 cm fan and I cut the sides away and removed the fan part from the motor. I used this same motor on the first led display I talked about in the beginning.
On the left photo the pcb is being populated and most of the 74HC595D shift registers and led current limiting resistors are missing. On the right I'm making the led part. I made this part again later and moved all the leds closer together. I used 16 double color (red+green) leds.
The board fully populated and the first tests on the display running. Just some random tests to see that all the shift registers are working properly and all the data lines are connected right.
After a couple days of building and fixing I got the machine ready. I did the led part again to get all the leds closer together because I wanted a more even picture and the long version was too wobbly. The rotating board gets its ground through the motor (I soldered a piece of wire to the bearing under the motor) and +12V is coming from the upper bracket seen on the photos. There is a big bearing on the bracket and it is held in place with those four M3 bolts.
Closeup of the bracket. The black thing pointing down above the bearing is an IR led covered with heat shrink tubing. There is a piece of fiber optic running through the center rod (~10 cm piece of M5 threaded rod) and it goes over an IR-diode on the board. It is used for serial data so I can send some information on to the rotating board. I'll replace this with a wireless link someday.
Side shot from the device. The rotating board is connected to the motor with three short M3 bolts. Below the motor there is a small pcb in the middle of those wires with a MAX233 RS232 level converter. The switch on the right is the main power switch and the one on the left is for the motor. The main switch lets power go on to the rotating board so I can program it and after removing the programming cable, I can then switch on the motor. There is also another IR led under the rotating board that is used to trigger the IR diode on the board that is connected to the INT0 interrupt on the ATmega. I tells the board when it has to start flashing the leds to draw the image.
And finally, the first real test with the display fully operational and rotating. I get three colors with this setup: red, green and orange/yellowish when both red ang green are on at the same time. I drew an image with the height of 16 pixels and used pure red (255,0,0), green (0, 255, 0) and yellow (255, 255, 0). I then made a small PHP-script that will load the PNG image file that I made and it just reads every pixel from it and checks whether there is red or green on it (yellow has them both). It then outputs a piece of code that I can copy and paste on to the program code of the display. I used two 8-bit tables (one for each color) where the first byte is the data for the first 8 leds and the second byte is for the last 8 leds and so on. The table length is two times the width of the image because two bytes are used for every column.
HDDClock - Hard Drive Clock
The clock made of old hard disk drive.
See more: http://www.elektroda.pl/rtv...
http://mb.forall.pl/hddclock/
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Make a Pocket LED Cube
Bre Pettis teams up with Mitch Altman and George Shammas to make a little 3x3x3 cube made of little LED lights that you can program with any kind of animation that you like!
You can get more information and detailed instructions at makezine dot com slash podcast.
http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2007/09/this_weekends_project_poc.html?CMP=OTC-0D6B48984890
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
